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quinta-feira, 21 de julho de 2016

As raízes russas do Chanel nº5 --- Russian roots of Chanel No. 5



Pouca gente sabe, mas em 1921 o químico russo Konstantin Veríguin ajudou a criar um composto de perfume que serviu de base para o lendário francês Chanel nº5.


Veriguin e seu mestre, Beaux, tiveram a missão de criar /
perfume adaptado à velocidade da época Foto:Andrêi Korliakov


O químico russo Konstantin Veríguin sempre teve um olfato particularmente aguçado. Em sua mente, todo lugar, pessoa ou evento tinha um cheiro único e irrepetível.


Tudo começou durante sua infância, transcorrida entre a terra natal, Petersburgo, e as propriedades de seus pais nas regiões de Ufá e Simbirsk – razão pela qual adorava a sensação de ar frio e a frescura da geada. O cheiro vindo da lareira queimando madeira de pinheiro e o café fresco também marcaram.

Certo dia, o jovem Konstantin, observando a penteadeira de sua tia, foi surpreendido pela diversidades de frascos estrangeiros e diferentes odores. Recebeu de presente algumas garrafinhas e, tão logo, começou os experimentos.

Durante a Guerra Civil Russa, Konstantin entrou para o Exército Branco e lutou contra os bolcheviques na Crimeia, em 1919. O fracasso, porém, o levou ao exílio na França.

Naquela época, Veríguin já sabia que sua vida estaria ligada a perfumes. Um dia foi apresentado a Ernest Beaux, uma autoridade no campo da perfumaria na França, que se surpreendeu com o talento do jovem químico russo e lhe propôs uma colaboração.

Com o tempo, Beaux se tornou não apenas uma autoridade e professor para Veríguin, mas também um amigo. Inclusive, referia-se a ele da maneira russa – Ernest Eduardovitch –, e com razão para isso.

Beaux nasceu em 1882, em Moscou, porém em uma família francesa. Falava russo perfeitamente, adorava Púchkin, Turguêniev e Dostoiévski e o Ballet Imperial.



Exílio

Cheiros de infância serviram de inspiração /
posterior para Veríguin Foto: Divulgação


Ainda na Rússia, tinha começado a se envolver em perfumaria e chegou a criar o “Bouquet de Katherine”, em homenagem a imperatriz, assim como outros perfumes populares. Em 1920, Beaux foi obrigado a retornar para a França.

5 da sorte

A Primeira Guerra Mundial acabou com a Belle Époque, e com ela começou um período de velocidade: a vida corria ao ritmo do foxtrote, em meio à fumaça de cigarro e ao barulho de carros e trens. A moda se adaptou a este novo ritmo, assim como o estilo de vida. Era preciso, então, criar um perfume ajustado à época.

A famosa estilista Coco Chanel pediu a Beaux que criasse um perfume para ela. Ele então lhe mostrou uma série de aromas e Coco escolheu o frasco de número 5.

Exilado na França, químico foi aprendiz 
de guru da perfumaria na época 
Foto: Andrêi Korliakov

Mais tarde, quando perguntada sobre o nome do perfume, Coco se limitou a dizer que apresentaria a sua “coleção de roupas no quinto dia do quinto mês do ano, isto é, maio. Portanto, deixamos o perfume com o mesmo número. Este 5 vai trazer sorte.”

Veríguin ficou responsável pela compra de uma essência qualidade, pela escolha dos ingredientes e pelo controle de qualidade. Não é à toa que a nota, ou matéria-prima, principal do Chanel No. 5 é a frescura dos rios do norte.

Nesses rios, segundo descreveu Veríguin, sente-se o perfume da primavera após o degelo, com “poder e clareza, sonoridade e ligeira valentia da juventude”. Para o criador, esses cheiros eram a memória da primavera russa. O efeito desejado foi obtido acrescentando florais aldeídos à base clássica.

Beaux estava entusiasmado com o resultado do trabalho de seu assistente russo. Em 5 de maio de 1921, o novo perfume foi apresentado ao público, como o primeiro a refletir as tendências da moda e o cheiro da nova década.




Fonte: @edisonmariotti #edisonmariotti

Cultura e conhecimento são ingredientes essenciais para a sociedade.

A cultura é o único antídoto que existe contra a ausência de amor

Vamos compartilhar.



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Champions of Design: Chanel No 5

The perfume brand started out as a dinner-party gift and now boasts sales of about 10m bottles per year.


The design of the Chanel No 5 bottle has remained a timeless classic, since the variant was created in 1921 as a modern contrast to the other perfumes of the early 20th century.


The French socialite and clothing designer, Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel, asked the perfumer Ernest Beaux to create a scent that embodied the modern, unconventional woman.


Chanel initially gave the No 5 perfume bottles to close friends at a dinner, before the perfume went on general sale the following year. The fragrance chiefly comprised rose, ylang-ylang, jasmine and sandalwood. The inclusion of aldehydes (compounds formed by the partial oxidation of alcohols) created a fresh and lasting synthetic scent.


Enclosed in a transparent, crystal bottle, the amber liquid became the focal point of the product's design. The clean-cut vessel, with its rectangular shape and rounded shoulders, was a contrast to the ornate art deco-style bottles of the early 1900s. The design was said to be based on a whisky decanter used by Chanel's lover, Arthur 'Boy' Capel.


The black and white label complemented the functionality of the bottle and the perfume, in line with the simplicity and comfort of the hats and clothes Chanel had been creating since establishing her millinery shop in 1910.


Chanel No 5 proved popular with the public when it was launched in 1922 and was soon released in the US. The glass bottle was too thin for shipping and distribution, so its corners were altered from a rounded to square shape for export.


Chanel required the necessary investment capital and business expertise to support expansion beyond Europe. She entered a partnership with two businessmen, the Wertheimer brothers, and together they established the Parfums Chanel Company, with Chanel retaining a 10% share of the business.


Although it is now in its 90th year of production, the current bottle barely differs from its original design. The company has always worked hard to retain the perfume's aspirational status. In 1934, the pocket flacon, a smaller-sized bottle, was created to reach the middle-class customers.


In 1974, when the perfume ran the risk of becoming a mass-market product, Alain Wertheimer reduced sales outlets from 18,000 to 12,000, removing the bottle from drug stores in the US.


As soon as No 5 was less readily available, it was in far higher demand, and sales have remained strong as a result.


Chanel No 5 remains successful today, with about 10m bottles sold worldwide every year.


Extravagant campaigns have featured a range of celebrities. Marilyn Monroe is famously quoted as saying that she wore five drops of Chanel No 5 to bed. In more recent times, Nicole Kidman starred in film director Baz Luhrmann's movie-like ad, while Brad Pitt is one of the contemporary faces of the brand.




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--in via tradutor do googleRussian roots of Chanel No. 5
Few people know, but in 1921 the Russian chemist Konstantin Veríguin helped create a compound of perfume that was the basis for the French legendary Chanel No. 5.
Veriguin and his master, Beaux, had the mission to create / fragrance adapted to the speed of time Photo: Andrei Korliakov
The Russian chemist Konstantin Veríguin always had a particularly keen sense of smell. In his mind, every place, person or event had a unique and unrepeatable smell.
It all started during his childhood, elapsed between the homeland, Petersburg, and the properties of their parents in the regions of Ufa and Simbirsk - why loved the feeling of cold air and the freshness frost. The smell coming from the fireplace burning pine wood and fresh coffee also marked.
One day, the young Konstantin, watching the dresser of his aunt, was surprised by the diversity of foreign bottles and different odors. He received a gift of some bottles and as soon as the experiments began.
During the Russian Civil War, Konstantin joined the White Army and fought against the Bolsheviks in the Crimea in 1919. The failure, however, led him to exile in France.
At that time, Veríguin knew that his life would be linked to perfumes. One day he was introduced to Ernest Beaux, an authority in the field of perfumery in France, he was surprised by the talent of the young Russian chemist and proposed a collaboration.
Over time, Beaux became not only an authority and teacher to Veríguin, but also a friend. Even referred to it the Russian way - Ernest Eduardovitch - and with reason.
Beaux was born in 1882 in Moscow, but in a French family. He spoke Russian perfectly, loved Pushkin, Turgenev and Dostoevsky and Ballet Imperial.
Exile
childhood smells were the inspiration / later to Veríguin Photo: Disclosure
Even in Russia, he had begun to engage in perfume and even created the "Bouquet of Katherine" in honor of the Empress, as well as other popular perfumes. In 1920, Beaux was forced to return to France.
5 lucky
The First World War ended the Belle Époque, and with it began a speed period: the life was the rhythm of the foxtrot, amid the cigarette smoke and the noise of cars and trains. Fashion has adapted to this new rhythm, as well as lifestyle. It was necessary, then create a perfume set at the time.
The famous fashion designer Coco Chanel asked Beaux to create a perfume for her. It then showed him a number of aromas and coconut selected number 5 flask.
Exiled in France, the chemical was apprenticed guru perfumery at the time Photo: Andrei Korliakov
Later, when asked about the name of the perfume, Coco merely said that it would present its "clothing collection on the fifth day of the fifth month of the year, ie May. So, let the perfume with the same number. This 5 will bring luck. "
Veríguin was responsible for purchasing a quality essence, the choice of ingredients and the quality control. No wonder that the note, or raw material, main Chanel No. 5 is the freshness of the northern rivers.
In these rivers, as described Veríguin, the spring scent feels after defrosting with "power and clarity, sound and light youth bravery". For the creator, these smells were the memory of the Russian spring. The desired effect was obtained by adding aldehydes to classical floral base.
Beaux was excited about the result of the work of his Russian assistant. On May 5, 1921, the new fragrance was presented to the public as the first to reflect the fashion trends and the smell of the new decade.
Collaboration: TATIANA KUTARENKOVA

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